ALL Rounds:
• All rounds are worked front side facing 
• Pattern repeat in bold type for each round makes pattern reading easy once you know how to start each row.
• Join new yarn at the beginning of each round.
COUNT Before You Fasten Off:
• Count after every round, if stitch count is off, pattern won’t work and you’ll need to inc/dec as necessary or frog!
• Fasten off every, weave in tail in well.

*PLEASE NOTE! Your choice of yarn and tension will vary the finished size to approx. 14-16" diameter when using different brands of cotton yarns:

I used Hobby Lobbies "I Love This Cotton" #4, medium weight 100% cotton in this project, which resulted in 14.5" placemats. Here is the colorway shown on the pattern:
•    306/Dark Denim
•    300/Pale Denim
•    302/Stonewash
•    95/Antique Cream
•    6/White

When I subbed "Sugar & Cream" or "Peaches & Cream" and crocheted tight (ouch) those yarns produced 16" placements. Acrylic yarns while an alternative but they won't wash/wear as well. 

I've also worked 4/4 Cotton, it's a smaller, tighter weave fiber producing superior results. Best alternative for creating a smaller placemat or larger mandala; approx 11-12" depending on tension/variables. 

For details and alternatives on choosing #4 cotton yarns check out these helpful posts:
​hearthookhome.com/cotton-a-cotton-yarn-comparison-for-crafters/
​www.tinycurl.co/2017/09/15/all-about-cotton-yarns/

If you are using these "rougher yarns", you might want to sub double crochet where trebles are specified! Using DK/Fingering weight yarns produced an 11" mandala -a nice oversized doily.

Round 1: Into magic loop, ch3 (counts as first dc), ch1. *1dc, ch1 * repeat from * to * around. Join with ss to top first ch3. Count/fasten off (12 dc, 12ch1 sp). HINT: keep tail intact from magic circle to easily identify wrong side.

Round 2:  Join in any ch1 sp from round 1. Ch3 (counts as first dc), 1dc, ch2. *2dc-cl in next ch1 sp, ch2* repeat from * to * around. Join with ss to top first ch3 (12 dc-cl, 12 ch2 sp).

Round 3:  Join in any ch2 sp from round 2. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 3dc in same ch1 sp. Make 4dc in each ch2sp around. Join with a ss st to the top of first ch3. Count/fasten off (48 dc).

Round 4: Join in any dc from round 3. Ch3, (counts as first dc); 1dc in same st. *dc in next 7 sts; 2 dc in next st* repeat from * to * around. Join with ss to first dc. Count/fasten off (54 dc).

Round 5: Join in any dc from round 4. Ch 2 (counts as first sc). *Ch3, skip 2 st, sc (loosely) in next st*. Repeat from *to * around. On last repeat, ch3 and Join with ss to  first sc. Count/fasten off (18 sc, 54 ch).

Round 6: Join in any ch3 sp from round 6. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 3dc in same ch3 sp. *4dc in each ch3 sp*. Repeat from * to * around. Join with ss to the top of the initial ch3. Count/fasten off (72 dc).

Round 7:  Join in the 1st dc of any group of 4dc from round 6. Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in next 3 sts. Sp dc in the sc of round 5 directly below. *Hdc in the next 4 st, sp dc in the sc of round 6 directly below*. Repeat from * to * around, and join with ss to the top of the initial ch2. Count/fasten off (72 hdc, 18 sp dc).

Round 8: Join in any sp dc from round 7. Ch5 (counts as dc, ch2), dc in same st (1 v-stitch made). *Skip 2 st, dc, ch2, dc in same st*. Repeat from * to * around, and join with ss to 3rd ch first ch5. Count/fasten off (30 v-stitch).

Round 9: Join in any ch2 sp from round 8. Ch3, dc, ch2, 2 dc cluster in same ch2 sp. *2dc cluster, ch2, 2dc cluster in next ch2 sp*. Repeat from * to * around and join with ss to top of the 1st dc. Count/fasten off (30  2dc clusters, 30 ch2 sp).

Round 10: Join in any ch2 sp from round 9. Ch2 (counts as first hdc) *1hdc in top of next two 2 dc cluster from round 9, 2hdc in next ch2 sp*. Repeat from * to * around and join with ss to top first hdc. Count/fasten off (120 hdc).

Round 11: Join in any hdc from round 10. Ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st. Dc in next 9 st(s). *2dc in next st, dc in next 9 st*. Repeat from * to * around and Join with ss to top first ch3. Count/fasten off (132 dc).

Round 12: Join in any dc, ch4 (counts as first tr), 2tr in the same dc, ch 2, miss 2 sts, *3tr in next st, ch 2, miss 2 st*. Repeat from * to * around, join with a ss in 4th ch of beginning ch4. Count/fasten off (44 3tr clusters, 44 ch2sp).

Round 13: Join in any ch 1 sp, ch3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in the same space, *4 dc in next ch 1sp, 3dc in next ch1 sp*. Repeat from * to * around, join with a ss in 3rd ch of beginning ch3. Count/fasten off (154 dc).

Round 14: Join in any dc, ch 2, (counts as first hdc), hdc in each st to end of round, join with a ss in 2nd ch of beginning ch2. Count/fasten off (154 st).

Round 16: Join in any tr, ch 2 (counts as first sc), sk 2 st, *7 dc in next st, sk 2 st, 1sc in next st, sk 2 st*.Repeat from * to * around, join to top of 1st sc with a ss. Count/fasten off (25 shells, 25 sc).

Round 17:  Join in any sc between ‘shells’, ch2 (counts as first sc), *1 sc in each of next 4 sts (brings you center dc from the shell), 1picot, 1sc in each of next 4 sts*. Repeat from * to * around, join to top of 1st sc with a ss. Count/fasten off, weave in any pesky ends and tail from magic ring on back side. You're Done! Don't skip the most important part...

BLOCK IT! Soak in cool water, squeeze out excess water (do not wring). Place all placements on a flat surface, pull each point straight, gently adjust each placemat so they are all uniform in size and let dry well. No need to pin to blocking boards; this simple method works well.

A relaxing stash-buster for beginners to advanced crocheters alike. All you need is a new pair of cozy texting gloves –easy to find for less than $10, combined with your stash yarn; these are a thoughtful handmade gift:)

Learn from my mistakes… have your gloves in hand before choosing the yarn and starting the project. a nice color match will give this glove set a professional look.

You’ll need 3+ oz of medium #4 Weight Worsted yarn. Reduce the recommended hook size -1mm and work this project with loose tension for nice stretchy ribbing.

If you usually work your tension tight, use the recommended hook size.

Row 1 (Foundation row 1): Start with a chain that starts at the bottom of the glove and runs to the tip of the pinky finger. I used 32 chains, but yours may vary with your hook size, yarn choice, and tension.

Row 2 (Foundation row 2): Turn chain, insert hook into the 2nd chain from hook, yarn over, pull up your first loop, and pull yarn through the 2 loops on the hook. Then single crochet (sc) across to the last st. I had 32 stitches (sts).

Row 3 through Finish (Pattern Rows): Back loop single crochet (blsc) in every st across, start every row with a sc at the base of the last sc from the previous row. 

To Finish: Slip stitch (ss) glove together. Start by marking the thumb opening as shown with pins or st markets. Fold the glove in half and secure each end with pins. Next, ss through the front-facing loop of both layers until you reach the 1st thumb opening marker and ss front loops only to the 2nd thumb opening marker. This eliminates fastening off and weaving ends on both sides of the thumb opening!

Resume joining through both layers after 2nd thumb opening marker to last st. Fasten off, weave in ends. Voila!

This pattern is fun and easy for beginner or advanced crocheters alike. Its small size makes this the purrfect car or travel project; especially if you're visiting friends with a cat!

❍ FASTEN OFF, leaving approx. 9” (228mm) yarn to sew each ear into the body.
❍ MARK PLACEMENT of the ears with pins (around rows 6-8).
❍ SEW EARS IN PLACE nice and tight using the yarn tails. Adjust eye pins for placement, then embroider in black for each eye, and pink for the nose and inside ears with yarn or embroidery floss. ​

Your Catnip Mouse is Ready to Play!

I prefer a starting with a STRETCHY FOUNDATION CHAIN also know as a Foundation Double Crochet (Fdc) which doubles as your first row. Finish last row with dc to match row 1.

Make sure you know how to begin and end rows for STRAIGHT EDGES. Here are several video and printed tutorials to cement this easy technique before you start.

CROCHET TENSION affects how straight your edges are. Before starting each session, relax a minute and think about tension. Consistent, relaxed yarn tension allows the fibers to ease into place; forming straighter edges.

I once made a blanket at a "stressful time". After several sessions, I had several rows of very tight stitches (worked under duress?) alternating with a few relaxed rows (less stress that day). Even though I practice straight-edge crochet technique, varying tensions on different days alone made those edges wave.

This quick read sums it up: 9 TIPS FOR CROCHET TENSION SOLUTIONS from thecrochetcrowd.com

2. Count Stitches Often
Especially after doing more complex rows like grannies, bobbles, shells. One or two stitches can be decreased/increased easily towards the end of the current row. If your stitch count is plus or minus more than two stitches, frog back to 86 stitches or starting fdc.

Rule of thumb: Work 1 st in each sc/hdc row, 2 sts in dc rows, 3 sts in tr rows, etc., HOWEVER –when a group of stitches looks uneven, it is! When this happens, frog and rework them, so they’re evenly spaced. Lay your work flat every few inches as you go to check for ripples/bumps. This makes frogging and reworking easy and gratifying if necessary because you’re just frogging/reworking a few stitches. I find this process a fun challenge:

7. Finish End Rows: Buttonhole Placement (2) "a" and "b" (beginning and end rows) are each worked with a different variation.
Both "a" and "b" ends of the shawl are worked with different variations to make the button and loop closure.

• First, mark the button/buttonhole placement.
• Fold shawl in half lengthwise, lining up all edges. Firmly roll the shawl, then place the extra large button in the center of the rolled edge to determine where the (two) button slits will be worked.
• Place a marker or pin on either side of the button twice –on both edges, top and bottom  making sure the markers line up as shown. This marks where your buttonhole begins/ends when you work end row b only.

End Row a) = 4 Rows hdc:

• a 1). Fasten yarn in one end corner, ch 2; hdc in each st. to end, turn.
• a 2). Ch 2, hdc in next st to end, turn.
• a 3/4). Repeat row 2 twice more; fasten off, weave end, move to b rows

Finish Both End Rows With Decorative Edges (2) Both the same, a and b

• Finish with your favorite border pattern, there’s a ton of free patterns online, my favorite "roundup" is is at beautifulcrochetstuff.com I chose: "Light Pink Crochet Border". Finish decorative edges on each end a/b, weaving in ends when done.
  

Crocheted (or knit) squares are relaxing and fun. When all your squares are complete the key to assembling your squares for a blanket, pillow or project is uniform squares. Finish several squares, load them onto your blocking board spritzing each square with water as you stack. When the yarning is all done, you’ll have blocked squares ready to assemble with military precision!

WOOD Note: You can use scrap wood on hand cut into a square at least 1" larger than the finished size of your yarn squares. I used a length of 2 x 8 pine cut off to make a 7-1/4" square* which is ideal for these 5-1/2" grannies. However, a larger or smaller piece of scrap wood that's bigger than the finished size of your squares will do. If your scrap wood is thinner in depth, you might want to glue 2 pieces together to make the drill holes deeper to give extra support to the dowels*. The 2" depth shown here is perfect. *Most 2x8 pine boards are 2" deep x 7-1/4" wide; not 8"!?

*Before assembling supplies, see dowel update below.

Measure and mark your square accurately corner to corner as shown. Mark the center intersection with a cross.

Mark the center intersection with a cross. Next measure and mark your square at an equal distant around  the board from the center point outward as shown. I made this for a 5-1/2" Granny Square project, measuring 2-3/4" out from the center to form a square as shown. Mark a big dot at each of the nine intersections. These are your the drill holes.

Drill each hole testing each hole with a piece of doweling as you go. The dowels should slide in/out easily without being too loose, allow extra space for wood swell (caused by water when you spray your squares). TIP: You can spray the board and dowels with Thompsons Water Seal or paint all the parts to avoid swelling when the project is done!

Mark the dowels every 12" and cut. You’ll have 12 stretcher dowels (3 extras). If you have a pencil sharpener, sharpen to a point. Note: this step is not crucial, a smooth flat end works fine.

Sand the dowels smooth so they don’t snag your squares; blunting each end if you made points. Test that they slide easily into the holes; drilling the holes a bit bigger if the dowels don't slide in/out of the drilled holes easily.

Spray the dowels and blocking board with Thompsons Water Seal –or a light spray of paint or poly to seal the wood to prevent swealing when you spray your squares.

*UPDATE! Wooden dowels have worked well as specified for 2+ years; after sanding them smooth as outlined, squares were easy to thread on the dowels, but I'm picky. The yarn didn't slide as well on these dowels as the chopsticks I've always used to hold my square wip. However, most chopsticks are square on one end. 

After a deep search on Amazon I found a very inexpensive set of stainless steel chopsticks that perfectly fit the 1/4" holes and they slide like a dream! Here's the link to purchase in sets of 5 (10 Chopsticks:) ​

HINT! Use a larger board, and drill several sets of holes to make a multi-size blocking board with drill guide as shown sized to your preferred sizes.

You Will Need
​YARN: 4 ply worsted yarn. 
CROCHET HOOK: C/2 (2.5mm).
TAIL: 8” (203mm) cord, rawhide or yarn
POLYFIL: Small quantity for body.
CATNIP: 2-3 tablespoons of premium organic catnip.
Cats are LOVING this stuff! 
DETAIL: Black and pink embroidery floss or yarn for eyes and nose.

Enjoy this FREE PATTERN!
​Or, follow this link to download a handy 2 page pdf with all the details for printing  for $1.95!

This year, I’m stuffing my holiday cards with ornament coasters. With all the hustle and bustle, it’s fun to get back to a bit of mindless relaxing crochet while making my holiday cards at bit more fun.

I used Hobby Lobby’s "I Love This Cotton" #4 medium weight 100% cotton  which works well when you want a tighter weave coaster. I immediately ignored the (recommended) hook size and drastically (?) downsized to a 3.5mm hook to work a denser fabric and it was smooth hooking.

Then, I tried some (rough) "Sugar and Cream" cotton. It was stiff stitching and needed the bigger hook! Use what works best for you; but try to use cotton any time you make a coaster.

​The ornament top/loop are added with HL’s "Soft & Sleek,  Silver Sparkle/224" for a little bling. If you're a beginner, you this pattern may help.

When my yarning friend Dawn told me she was going to use my Mandala Place Mat pattern to crochet a festive version for holiday card stuffers this year, I was so inspired I had to make some myself!

The original pattern specifies #4 cotton (perfect for 14" place mats); however subbing a finer (#2 weight) cotton using this pattern makes smaller, lighter weight version perfect for card stuffing.

I hit my stash of Hobbii "Rainbow Cotton 8/4" and using the suggest 3mm hook for the yarn, this simple substitution worked a 11" diameter doily weighing 2oz. when stuffed in a 5 x 7" greeting card. Any fingering or sock yarn should do if you have some on hand; and if you use a #2 acrylic yarn, it might be a bit lighter as well.

The colorway I used clashes with the card I had on hand to share Dawns idea; but I’ve plenty of time to find holiday cards with muted colors to shock the heck out of friends/family that haven’t gotten seen a snail mail card from me in YEARS!

I hope you enjoy this free pattern! Just hit this link to the: pattern, sub a #2 yarn and corresponding hook and have some holiday crochet fun! Happy yarning.

Searching the net, I found that most paper raffia came in varying sized spools of paper tightly folded into a 1/4" strand . I settled on a 218 yd  Spool of Raffia Paper Craft Ribbon Packing Paper Twine, 1/4" by Creatrill online for $9.99 and only used 1/2 the spool. While this is same type raffia most of the patterns specified, it was obviously quite stiff to work, so I planned to limited my work sessions stretching it out over a few days to protect my hands/wrists!

While planning, Hobbii posted this link to "The Tour" Bucket Hat pattern. It's well written and designed with small, medium and large options using #4 worsted weight yarn. Not made for raffia, but the perfect for technique in the precise shape I was looking for.

So, WHY didn’t I use a raffia bucket hat pattern?

I decided that the right shape (Hobbi) pattern in combination with my (same style, cloth) bucket hat as a template would produce the right fit. Instead of attempting several hooks/swatches to get to correct gauge; I used my hat as a guide to fine tune the pattern for raffia as I worked the hat.

​Using the Hobbii pattern to start the crown, it was very easy to adjust the stitch count easily following the structure of the fabric hat to ensure fit. This worked very well –no frogging.

Starting with the recommended 3mm hook for specified Rainbow Cotton 8/8 (comparable to #4 worsted), I could barely pull through stitches, so I moved up to 4.5 hook, (still tough going). Continuing, I discovered a back loop sc (vs. a standard sc) it was much easier and looked nice –and the hook upsizing was hardly detectable

I eventually settled on a 6mm hook, following instructions for the hat crown row by row while checking the diameter after every row before moving to the sides. The hat crown, sides and brim needed less rows than specified in the pattern because the stitches were taller, but I followed the pattern increases and there was no rippling or cupping as I successfully replicated the fabric hat; moving on to the brim following increases and measuring until it was the perfect length. The stitches have rustic appearance, but I like the look for this hat. Surprisingly, it wasn’t obvious that I increased my hook up 3 full sizes!?

I’d love to continue this method to create other favorite shapes and brims... Before I do, I’ll need to find a finer, more supple raffia (or straw)!?

​There are some pricey versions on the market that I'd love to try, but only after I get some recommendations from yarners who have found a finer, more grass-like fiber that would be easier to hook and produce a finer stitch pattern… Please share!

​I chose this pattern for a relaxing binge and crochet #wip and this textural afghan didn't disappoint. It's amazing what one one simple stitch and five colors can do! 

The long edges on this piece are so even and uniform, I suppressed my usual urge for border finishing to show these edges off. A triple crab stitch border anchored each end of the afghan with a simple twist (see notes below). This one's a winner... relax and crochet away.

My Finishing Variation
Triple Crab Stitch Border
All stash yarn; (4) medium weight worsted (see pattern for new yarn specifics).
Finished dimensions: 40" (101.6 cm) width x 66" (172.72 cm) length 

​Border (finish ends only)

• Row 1: 1 row hdc in start/finish color.  I skipped every 3rd stitch of every (3) dc cluster to work a flat even border foundation.
• Rows 2-4: Crab stitch 3 rows changing colors each row. Check reverse side on row 2, when you start. Place crab stitch between the previous row stitches (not center of the "v") -when this is done, the border is pretty on both sides.

This may be obvious, but it's key. I used stash-yarn because I had lots of navy yarn that went with my living room decor. It always begins that way, right?

It didn't take long to realize I had miscalculated the yarn and needed several more skeins and could only get it on-line (two orders!). So much for stash busting. This pattern requires a LOT of yarn.

After that experience I'd recommend using a value yarn like the Red Heart Supersaver® yarn designated on the pattern. At least for the main portion of the couch (and, I'm not a RH ambassador) but after all, it IS their pattern! It's affordable, washable, durable and easy to find for most. Choose a color similar to your cats dominant color so shedded fur doesn’t show as much. 

After completion I had used approximately 35 ozs. of #4 worsted; just under five 7oz. Red Heart Super-Saver® skeins for the base color (gray alone). The picture doesn't look like it takes a lot of yarn, but there is a lot of relaxing crochet that's invisable until you start making the individual pieces!

I realized the “foam foundation” (couch form) should be made before any crochet begins. That way, you can hold each piece up against the corresponding part of the couch to confirm it fits correctly as you go, saving time and frogging. The foam foundation instructions are on page 5 of the pattern –skip to that part first.

On-line, the upholstery foam would cost  $60+/- which I expected. After trips to Joanne and Hobby Lobby coupons in-hand, I found upholstery foam to be costly there too, so I resorted to some old cushion foam stashed at home.

I'd had two pieces of high-density foam in the attic. Not the precise measurements, in two different colors, but perfefct for this foam foundation considering the savings. High density upholstery foam is firmer and more expensive, but it's not really necessary for this project because most cats are light, right? If you have something that works, use it.

Following the foam foundation instructions (pgs. 5, 4), mark the exact measurements on craft paper (or newsprint, etc), and cut out pattern pieces. This step makes it easy to lay the pattern out on the foam to see the best cutting layout.

Place the largest pattern pieces on your foam first, then the smaller pieces, moving the pattern parts like a jigsaw puzzle to fit every piece before cutting the foam.

Then, take a sharpie pen and mark each pattern piece directly onto foam. If you have a key piece that’s a bit too small, consider piecing it with a leftover piece of foam, it won’t show even if the seaming is a bit uneven after gluing. As you can see below, I reallly got piece-happy and saved $60. Remember to cut 2 pieces of foam for armrest.

Cut the foam with a serrated knife, cutting the sides with the straightest right angles possible, trying not to slope those sides as you cut. Relax! With a nice big serrated bread or steak knife, it’s easier than you think. Your crocheted slip cover will be forgiving and cover little irregularities as these photos attest.

The older pattern (that I started with) specified foam glue for assembly. I purchased the upholstery foam glue which looked like Elmers® or tacky glue. It didn’t  fuse well, taking over 2 days to dry completely.

The updated pattern (shown above) specified a hot glue gun👍🏻, so I reinforced the weak spots with my hot glue and it bonded firmly, immediately. Don’t use foam glue, it’s inferior to hot glue.

Concerned the navy (stash-buster) yarn I chose for my cover would show the (lighter) foam underneath through my stitching, I painted the foam foundation with navy (water based, LATEX) paint. It dried in approx 24 hrs. while I happily crocheted.

In the end, I discovered that the foam didn't show through my stitches, but  my sad looking patchwork foundation looked  a lot nicer, and I stopped worrying about show through! An easy option if you’re concerned about that.

Final foam note: I used 1/2” foam for the cushions as specified in the first pattern. The revised pattern calls for six pieces of quilt batting, stacking 3 layers in each cushion.  Because I had neither on hand, I chose foam for a spongy, firmer cushion –more like an actual couch cushion.

Once the base perimeter strip was attached to the couch, be sure turn the cover right side out, then fit it over the foam foundation permanently. I found it better to skip adding the dust ruffle at this stage, and “sewed the bottom to lower edge of base” first.

Next pin fit the dust ruffle attaching it last. This way, you can be sure the ruffle just barely and evenly meets the floor. Using my slip stitch join on the dust ruffle join made a cording-like finished look, much like a real couch dust ruffle seam. These last 2 joins were made with the lightweight couch sitting easily in my lap.

There’s a plethora of free Granny Ripple blanket patterns online. I made my variations using Oombawka Designs "Healing Granny Ripple Blanket", a free 13 page pdf with everything you need to make this in multiple sizes with clear detailed instructions, edging details and charts for the blanket AND the edging. Find out more about Rhonda; the designer and download links at the end of this post.

Just remember... these are rough notes targeted to those who know the basics of crochet. None of it is difficult, but if you don't understand my directions, "google" the term in question for clarification:) 

​Mandala Ombré’s color changes are more subtle than the original: each color gradually blends into the other in both tonal and multi-colored versions. The printing technique allows for some of the cream yarn base to show through, creating a hand-dyed, artisanal effect. Mandala Ombré is slightly thicker than some worsteds, spun with multiple plies of premium acrylic, which give it the look and feel of merino at a fraction of the cost. Soft, springy, yummy!

Begin with a magic loop. 
• Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc on all rounds), 3 dc in ring, ch 1, 4 dc in ring. Fasten off. (8 dc) 
• Row 2: Join yarn in top of ch-3, ch 3, 3 dc in same stitch, skip next 3 dc, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch-1 space, skip 3 dc, 4 dc in last dc. Fasten off. 
• Row 3: Join yarn in top of ch-3, ch 3, 3 dc in same stitch, skip next 3 dc, 3 dc in space before next 3-dc group, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch-1 space, skip next 3 dc, 3 dc in space before next 3-dc group, skip 3 dc, 4 dc in last dc. Fasten off.

​Make points, lay them along each long edge making sure the tonal variations in the yarn (my points were made from the darkest of the ombré yarn, but some were lighter). Then stack in order (I use a couple chop sticks) and do an Invisible Join (Google it!?)  up the side. Leave 1 - 2 stitches (no more!) between adjacent points where they connect to the blanket, these little spaces will close up and snug the neighboring points together when you add the border.

Edging:
Oombawka Designs "Healing Granny Ripple Blanket" has pretty edging instructions with a nice chart for reference. I used this pattern, with sc for first few rows, decreasing in the valleys (pulling the little space between the points together), and increasing on the peaks as outlined. I did a slight variation on my final 2 rows of border. Have fun like I did and make this pattern your own!

An all-time #favorite to date! 🧶
Designer @janiecrow ’s #PersianTilesEasternJewels is beautifully written with easy, concise instructions/photos resulting in a beautifully constructed pattern -well worth the download for pattern only  #StashBusting fun….

I got the kit at us.deramores.com –out-of-stock, but they emailed me when it was in. ✅Incredible VALUE   ✅ Really loved working the #stylecraftyarn and their #EasternJewels #colorway 
🧶​
#Yarn #Crochet #CrochetersOfInstagram #HeckathornYarnBowls #JumboYarnBowls

​

I’ve been on a crochet break lately, revisiting my childhood love of embroidery. Obviously, I’m not an illustrator, and there are similar free patterns on the net, but I wanted to try making this pattern from my head to wear and share.

Sharing a video I created for Instagram Stories. Very frustrating as of this posting, I had learned that the vertical format this was shot in would play in vertical format when posted. Obviously, after a lot of attempts the intended vertical format has not worked, with black space on either side.

Still, some good info here –enjoy! If you know the "fix" let me know 😳Happy Yarning 🧶

Last week I made masks from woven cotton fabric on hand and shared this nicely thought out mask pattern by CraftPassion.com

Then, testing these masks on warm walks in FL, I found the woven cotton masks too heavy and uncomfortable. I started thinking… What about non-woven polypropylene material? Known for it's breathable, wicking properties I was pretty sure that it was the same fabric as the "HEPA" filter fabric used in vacuum cleaner bags.

​Many of you many already have "Reusable Shopping Bags" in your car or home. I found mine at the checkout line of a big box store. Each bag (under $1.00) made 4 masks. And, you could squeeze out 5 masks from a lot of bags; I laid these out to show off the cute prints.

1. Use a seam ripper to carefully remove the side seams. The binding could be used for a (non-stretchy) tie if you don’t have elastic braid handy!

2. Throw all the shopping bag parts into the washer (hot, cold, doesn’t matter), then in the dryer (these dry quick). The washer/dryer should remove the thread bits, so you don’t have to pick them out or make a mess.

6. Optional! Zig-Zag 4" length of trimmed pipe cleaner in the seam at the bridge of the nose for closer fit.

While these masks are machine washable and withstand dryer heat, I just throw my mask in a bucket of hot water and Dawn, soak for a bit, rinse and put it out in the breeze to air dry. We don't go out often, so this is quick and easy. Remember to avoid handling any mask after use,  and get it into hot soapy water or the washer as soon as you're home.

Today, I tried to shot and share how nice and straight this afghan came out but the  cat had better ideas and I can’t blame her!

I loved working this Rectangular Granny Blanket from Lion Brand® #SoftSpokenYarn in the "Seashells" colorway. I kept to a very simple pattern to showcase the cool gradients, popping it with a frame of bright white with a furry chenille border. Methinks this one is a keeper!
💭❤️🧶
#yarn #knit #crochet #afghan #blanket #catsofinstagram #HeckathornYarnBowl